Beginner Crochet Hexi-Cardi Pattern: Both Sides Now

How a hexi-cardigan works

A six-sided granny motif naturally ruffles instead of lying flat. That is correct. Fold it so two adjacent sides meet: one section becomes the sleeve, one becomes the front, and one becomes half of the back. Make a second matching hexagon for the other side, seam the center back and shoulders, then add rows wherever you want more body or sleeve length.

Materials

• Medium weight #4 yarn in one color or several coordinated colors; see yardage below
• US J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook, or size required to meet gauge
• Six locking stitch markers
• Tapestry needle and scissors
• Flexible measuring tape

Choose yarns with the same weight, fiber family, and care instructions. A washable wool blend or premium acrylic gives the granny fabric bounce without excessive weight. Check the Craft Yarn Council yarn-weight guide before substituting yarn.

US crochet abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• dc: double crochet
• dc3tog: double crochet three together
• sp: space
• st(s): stitch(es)
• RS / WS: right side / wrong side

A granny cluster means 3 dc worked into the same chain space. A corner means (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same corner space.

Finished sizing and yarn requirements

The cardigan is designed with approximately 6–10 inches of positive ease. Measure a relaxed cardigan you enjoy wearing and compare its finished bust to this chart.

Yardage is an estimate and includes a modest allowance for borders and swatching. Buy extra yarn for longer sleeves, additional body length, matching stripes, or pockets.

Gauge, fit, and color planning

Three granny clusters and six rounds measure approximately 4 inches after blocking. More important than matching the round gauge exactly is producing a fabric that drapes without becoming loose or heavy.

Make a swatch, wash it as the finished cardigan will be washed, and measure after drying. Use a larger hook if the fabric feels stiff or you have too many clusters per 4 inches. Use a smaller hook if the fabric is floppy or you have too few.

For the four-color sample, repeat deep teal, rust, oatmeal, and muted gold in any balanced order. Weigh each yarn before and after a round if you need to estimate whether enough remains for the matching round on the second hexagon.

Crochet the first hexagon

Ch 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring, or begin with a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 dc into the ring, ch 2. Work (3 dc into ring, ch 2) five more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. You have six clusters and six corner spaces.

Round 2: Sl st to the next corner space. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the same corner. Ch 1. In each remaining corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 1. Join.

Round 3: Sl st to the next corner. Work a corner in that space. Ch 1, work 3 dc in the next ch-1 side space, ch 1. In each corner, work a corner; in each side space, work one granny cluster with ch 1 between clusters. Join.

Continue: Repeat the established pattern. Every round adds one granny cluster to each side. Place a marker in each ch-2 corner so none are missed.

Continue until the motif folds comfortably into an L shape and the folded body half reaches the target width in the sizing table. Check the sleeve opening around your upper arm over the clothing you plan to wear underneath. Add more full rounds only when both the body and sleeve need additional room.

Make the second side, fold, and join

1. Make a second hexagon using the same hook, yarn sequence, round count, and finishing color.
2. Block both pieces lightly to matching measurements.
3. Fold each hexagon into an L shape with RS facing out. Place the two halves side by side with front openings facing inward.
4. With WS together, join the center-back edges using mattress stitch or sl st. Stop at the point where you want the back neckline to begin.
5. Join the top shoulder edges, leaving enough room for the neck opening. Try on the cardigan before fastening off permanently.

If the back is wide enough but the front does not meet as desired, add rows only along the front edges. If more length is needed, add granny rows across the lower body after joining.

Add body length, sleeves, cuffs, and border

Body length

Join yarn at one lower-front corner. Work granny clusters evenly across the lower edge, maintaining ch-1 spaces between clusters. Turn and repeat until the cardigan reaches the finished length in the chart or your preferred length.

Sleeve length

Join yarn at the underarm. Work granny rounds around the sleeve opening. To taper, work dc3tog over two neighboring clusters at the underarm every second round until the cuff circumference is comfortable. Stop approximately 2 inches before the desired sleeve length.

Cuffs

With a hook one size smaller, work one round of sc. Continue with 6–8 rounds of back-loop-only sc, or use front-post/back-post dc ribbing. Keep the cuff stretchy enough to pass over the hand.

Front and neckline border

With RS facing, join yarn at the lower right front. Work sc evenly up the front, around the back neckline, and down the left front. Work 3–5 rows, adjusting stitch placement if the border waves or pulls. Fasten off and weave in every end securely.

Beginner troubleshooting

• The hexagon is flat: recount six corners and confirm every corner contains two clusters separated by ch 2.
• The sides are uneven: check that each side has the same number of granny clusters.
• The two halves differ: match round count, color order, hook size, and blocked measurements.
• The back seam puckers: undo the seam, block both edges to equal lengths, and reseam without pulling.
• The cardigan is wide but short: stop adding full hexagon rounds and add rows only at the lower body.
• The sleeves are too wide: taper gradually at the underarm before adding cuffs.